Nazare

This town is a strange combination of fishing village and cheesy beach resort, perfect for a last week of adventure. It has a grid of extra narrow streets forcing visitors and locals into intimacy. The town’s women patrol the streets, many in traditional costumes of short, voluminous skirts and brightly embroidered tops. They tout their private rooms, restaurants, and sell dried fruits, nuts and fish along the oceanfront promenade. It is quite a sight to see.

The B&B I am staying in is absolutely gorgeous and by far one of the nicer places I have stayed in my travels. Perched on a hilltop about 2.5km from town, the balcony which is about the same size as the room, offers breathtaking and sweeping views of the ocean, marina and Sitio promontioro. The only downside is that it’s about a 15 minute walk downhill to the town and about a 25 minute walk all uphill back. There are stairs which cut through a park lined with eucalyptus trees which is supposedly a shortcut but it still takes me the same amount of time whether using the stairs or the street. Knowing the view and comforts awaiting for me, the uphill walk is totally worth it.

I meandered around town yesterday and then took the funicular (tram/cable car) up to Sitio which has gorgeous views and among Portuguese devotees, mystical associations. I wandered down to the lighthouse and was taken by the ocean views and the view back at the town. On one side of the promontorio you look back at the beach and town of Nazare, and the other side is this long, beautiful beach with very rough surf and not suitable for swimming but the water looks so clear. I also put in a bit of beach time and following the Irish lead from last week, went swimming (with a suit). The water was very cold and you can’t stay in for long but it’s a nice way to cool down.

I went to a recommended place for dinner last night - very local, family style dining. I thought I had ordered crab in special sauce which is basically the meat from the body of the crab mixed with a sauce and served back in the crab. Instead, I got a plate of about a dozen huge prawns (with skin & head still on) that had been broiled and served with a lettuce/potato salad mix. When asked if I wanted dessert, the waiter said the almond cream was good. What is it I asked? He said, "It's a cream with almonds" so I said "sure." After ordering dessert, the owner came by, knowing that I had wanted crab rather than prawns and said if I didn't like the dessert, he'd fix me something else. The almond cream was a nut paste with a dash of cream. I had a teaspoon or two and was done. The next thing I knew I have another six huge prawns that had been sauteed in garlic and butter -- way better than any dessert. Dining is always an adventure!

The remainder of the week is about relaxing, chilling out at the beach and enjoying the scrumptious fish and views the town offers.