Hedonism and Art

Some say that Barcelona gives an impression of being dedicated exclusively to hedonism. Within a few blocks, you can find the Museo de l’Erotica, Museo de la Xocolata, and various sex shops interspersed with a number of bars and cafes, drinking is a given, nightlife doesn’t begin until at least 11pm and goes until daybreak, so I’d say the impression could merit some validity. The other thing I have noticed about this city is that art is everywhere – on the streets, painted on sides of buildings, tasteful graffiti, window displays, etc.

I still haven’t found my “grounding place” and typing that sounds so California but I have been enjoying the city more each day. Yesterday, I had no agenda but to chill and get my vibe going with this city. I strolled through the Mercat de la Boqueria which is one of the best stocked and most colorful produce markets in Europe and the pavement has a large mural designed and painted by Joan Miró. It makes Whole Foods and our farmers' markets look like mom and pop stands. There is produce, fresh fish, dried fruits and nuts, a bar/café or two, candy by the pound, bread shops, meats, olive oils, cheese, various types of rice, seasonings, juices, eggs and just about anything else you can think of to cook a fresh meal. Needless to say I was impressed and amazed. Now if I had some place here with a kitchen, it would be nirvana. I wondered around some of the neighborhoods not in the “tourist district,” passed by the university and by late afternoon decided it was time for a glass of sangria and a short siesta.

If you follow European futbol, you’ll know that Euro 2008 is underway, Spain beat Italy in three overtimes on Sunday night and last night Spain was up against Russia. Most of the bars show the game on wide screen tv’s so I thought what the heck. I ventured into the bar down the street around 8:30, game was set to begin at 8:45 and the Spainards/Catalans are VERY passionate about their team. I left the bar around 10 because it was now wall to wall people, everyone seemed to be smoking and the noise level was defeaning. I strolled around Las Ramblas, sat and watched people and sometime after 11pm, it was clear that Spain had beaten Russia. The streets were wild – honking, flag waving, drinking, just one big street party and I loved it! The final match of this tournament is on Sunday evening with Spain playing against Germany -- I can't wait.

Today I had a wonderful visit to the Picasso museum – only a few people in line when I arrived. The museum focuses on Picasso’s formative years and specific moments later in his life. He began his craft in the late 1800’s and it continued to evolve until his death in 1973. I had no idea that he spent a large part of his later life doing ceramics and was instrumental in the way ceramics are now made by artists. His evolving work from sketching and portraits to more abstract and Cubanism I also found fascinating. There was descriptions outlining each period and a chronology at the end. While it was very clear that Picasso was a brilliant, passionate artist, those traits carried into his personal life as well. I counted three wives as well as three long term lovers which overlapped, of course. Maybe I need to take a page from his book, not about the wives, but the lovers perhaps? I also ventured into the Museo de la Xocolata (Chocolate) because I thought how great that a city dedicates a whole museum to chocolate. It gave the history, roots, different forms of chocolate, medicinal qualities, etc but the best part came at the end with free samples:) I wandered into the Mercat de Sta. Caterina which is similar to the Mercat de la Boqueria but instead of a crazy, loud, place, it was much more subdued, with most things behind plastic cases, it seemed so much more sterile and formal than the other Mercat that I didn’t enjoy that as much.

Tomorrow I’m thinking I’ll hit a couple more of the museums, roam some neighborhoods and hit the beach but you never can tell.